The Real Unseen in Sunscreen

Whether you’re a beauty enthusiast or a barefaced babe, there’s one product both camps can agree on: Sunscreen.

 

The sun emits ultraviolet light, commonly known as UV rays or UV radiation, that can harm your skin without proper protection. When the skin absorbs UV rays over a period of time, it often becomes several shades darker (see the coveted summertime tan). But lasting skin damage from sun exposure may lurk underneath the surface, taking shape as sun spots, prominent wrinkles, or an increased risk of cancer. Applying sunscreen is akin to a barrier or shield that reflects UV rays off the skin and keeps it intact.

 

With all of the sunscreens currently on the market, there’s bound to be something for everyone. Creams, sprays, powders–oh my! But before you wade into this sea of options (or the pool), it’s worth asking a question that applies to cosmetics more broadly: do I need protection from my products?

 

The beauty industry is no stranger to toxic chemicals and compounds. Over the last few centuries, makeup companies have introduced customers to lead, formaldehyde, mercury, petrol, and arsenic through lipstick, facial creams, powders, and lotions. Peeling back the many layers of the cosmetic industry’s history calls for another post entirely, but for now, let’s take a look at endocrine disruptors.

 

First off, what is an endocrine disruptor? Endocrine disruptors (according to the National Institute of Environmental Health Sciences) are natural or man-made chemicals that may block or interfere with the body’s hormones, which are part of the endocrine system.

 

When these endocrine disruptors come into contact with the skin (or are inhaled, as with perfume), they can block critical hormonal functions like reproductive ability, menstrual cycles, brain development, and even adolescent growth. Endocrine disruptors are present in an alarmingly high number of cosmetic products, including sunscreen. In fact, many of the actives in mineral sunscreens are suspected or proven endocrine disruptors–an unfortunate truth I learned after buying Supergoop’s Unseen Sunscreen this summer.

 

I’d seen rave reviews of the lightweight, white-cast free formula (which retails for $38) from beauty enthusiasts on socials and decided I needed to try for myself. Like many others, I appreciated the sunscreen’s easy application and smooth texture that doubled as a primer. But when I took a closer look at the actives list and saw ingredients that sounded eerily similar to fuel options at a gas station, I took to the Internet to do some serious research.

 

Here is the active ingredient list for Supergoop’s Unseen Sunscreen:

  • Avobenzone 3%

  • Homosalate 7%

  • Octisalate 5%

  • Octocrylene 9%  

 

And here are some of the main takeaways from research on these chemicals (and endocrine disruptors more generally):

  • All four chemicals (Avobenzone, Homosalate, Octisalate, Octocrylene) were NOT included in the Federal Drug Administration’s (FDA) 2019 proposed “safe and effective” classification. Yikes.

  • European Union (EU) regulations for endocrine disruptors in cosmetic products are years ahead of those in the US. For example:

  • Maximum concentration of Homosalate allowed in EU vs US products: 1.4% vs 15%.

  • Maximum concentration of Oxybenzone (a common chemical found in sunscreens) allowed in EU vs US products: 2.2% vs 6%.

  • Octisalate and Octocrylene absorb into the skin at levels 10 and 14 times higher than the FDA’s standard for safe exposure, respectively.

  • Despite its common usage in sunscreens, Octisalate can cause contact dermatitis for those with sensitive skin.

  • For those that enjoy swimming, surfing, or water sports–take note! Studies have linked Octocrylene with higher levels of water pollution and damaged coral reefs.

 

In sum, high percentages of these chemicals in cosmetic products (or elsewhere) pose a threat to human health. While the FDA, National Institutes of Health, and Environmental Protection Agency have put endocrine disruptor studies into motion, the full effects of years-long bioaccumulation are still unknown.

 

So, do concerns over chemical compounds and endocrine disruptors outweigh the benefits of sunscreen? Drumroll please…

 

Sunscreen is still a necessity to protect your skin! While some of the ingredients in Supergoop’s Unseen Sunscreen give me pause, all of the actives (save Homosalate) adhere to EU cosmetic guidelines. Plus, the product is formulated with yummy compounds like meadowfoam seed oil for barrier hydration and licorice root to calm irritation and inflammation. 

 

Like I said before, the number of sunscreen products on the market is astounding. Personally, I would rather spend my money on products with one FDA-approved active than products with four “on-the-fence” compounds. Let this be a call for conscientious consumerism–when you can, look for products that adhere to the EU’s more stringent cosmetic guidelines and avoid sunscreens with high percentages of super-toxic compounds like Oxybenzone.

 

Here are a few EU sunscreens and Environmental Working Group-approved products I recommend for those looking to make a switch:

 

  • Naif Sunscreen Cream, SPF 30

  • Babo Daily Sheer Tinted Mineral Sunscreen Fluid, SPF 50

  • Beautycounter Countersun Mineral Sunscreen Stick, SPF 30

  • Happy Ocean Water Sport Mineral Sunscreen Lotion, SPF 30

  • Suntribe All Natural Mineral Day Cream, SPF 20